A memory of summer...

I put one arm in front of the other. Over and over again. I could feel my arm tighten each time as I cut through the frigid water with my cupped hands. With each stroke I got myself a few feet closer to my distant destination: the Outside. But first I had to get past the massive wall of whitewater in front of me. It loomed forward like a furious monster just waiting to crack. I gave a few more hopeless strokes then leaned over on my right side and flipped myself over...with my surfboard on top of me. Despite my efforts to hold on, the wave shook my hand free and flung my board behind me. The wave then rolled me over and over again. It felt like I was in a giant washing machine. Finally the wave had passed and my head broke through the surface. The sun beamed on my face like a beacon of light. My hand ran itself down my leg and found where it was attached to my leash that connects me to my surfboard. I tugged on it and my board inched toward me. When it was in reach I launched my hand forward and grabbed the tail. In a quick fluid motion I turned my board around and dragged myself up on to it. Thankfully that set had passed and I was able to make it to the outside during the lull.Once I was sure I was safe from the waves I flung my feet forward and sat on my butt and look out toward the horizon.

Thinking on it now, I wonder if I had foreseen that the horizon would soon become bumpy with a new set of big waves; or that one of them would present a perfect left that I would ride all the way into the sand. Or if I would then eat my sandwich on the beach as I remember that perfect wave.